After aquiring a splendidly nice looking D70 (2 owners, last one for 30 years) but where the LCD inverter made some (not much, but enough) noise and the LCD was washed out, i ordered a replacement from synth-parts.com and got to work. Not extremely easy, but not as rough as the SY77 either.
What i will do in the future is to place a 500ohm resistor in the chain to dampen the backlight a tad bit.
Oh, and maybe (idk...) i will replace the intel CPU for a 16mhz version where the original 12mhz chugs along currently). In all fairness, i haven't decided on this yet as i'm only using it for multitracking in the DAW (so no multitimbral excursions where the LFO issues, etc will be noticeable)
Images in no particular order.
Oh, the keyboard assembly needs to be shifted away slightly. There is really not much to it besides having to unscrew 6 screws and ever so gently lifting it away so that the PCBs underneath can come free later...
The inverter (A.K.A "old yeller") now removed. This is also the place where (presumably) the ~500ohm resistor (or VR best case) will be placed for reducing the backlight. Its quite bright as it comes by the vendor and i'd prefer it somewhat darker which is why i do consider this. The new display to be prepared. Old plexi cover to be transferred (its stuck there quite hefty by adhesive, but using for example a pick and some patience, it can be separated from the original LCD and put in place on the new LCD. Just take your time) The old and faded display (a Toshiba unit). Remember that the old display is ~7.5mm in height whereas the new one (which is basically sourced from BuyDisplay as one of the Arduion compatible ones) is ~9mm thick. In order to not have the plexy protrude on the top when assembled, swap the mounting brackets (putting them in place from the bottom rather than from the top, and use the nylon washers (if you got the synth-parts one already prepared, or if you build this on your own, use a very thin nylon washer here). The system board with the controller CPU underneath the metal casing (Intel). I'm considering upgrading this a little bit for a 16mhz 'G' revision which apparently help sorting some slowness issues that can be remedied by using later firmware versions (up to 1.19). I'm currently on 1.16 and debate with myself if it would be worth the hassle... Basically a couple of shots where it is a bit disassembled and waiting for the numerous screws to come off, revealing the button/lcd board. The worst part of disassembling it was basically the bottom part that required some odd 19 screws to come off. The finished unit. Its 100% silent now. Its chrystal clear... Its like looking into the sun (
, well not really but sort of. I'll probably reduce the backlight using a resistor when i'm about to turn blind from it...
)
What i will do in the future is to place a 500ohm resistor in the chain to dampen the backlight a tad bit.
Oh, and maybe (idk...) i will replace the intel CPU for a 16mhz version where the original 12mhz chugs along currently). In all fairness, i haven't decided on this yet as i'm only using it for multitracking in the DAW (so no multitimbral excursions where the LFO issues, etc will be noticeable)
Images in no particular order.
Oh, the keyboard assembly needs to be shifted away slightly. There is really not much to it besides having to unscrew 6 screws and ever so gently lifting it away so that the PCBs underneath can come free later...
The inverter (A.K.A "old yeller") now removed. This is also the place where (presumably) the ~500ohm resistor (or VR best case) will be placed for reducing the backlight. Its quite bright as it comes by the vendor and i'd prefer it somewhat darker which is why i do consider this. The new display to be prepared. Old plexi cover to be transferred (its stuck there quite hefty by adhesive, but using for example a pick and some patience, it can be separated from the original LCD and put in place on the new LCD. Just take your time) The old and faded display (a Toshiba unit). Remember that the old display is ~7.5mm in height whereas the new one (which is basically sourced from BuyDisplay as one of the Arduion compatible ones) is ~9mm thick. In order to not have the plexy protrude on the top when assembled, swap the mounting brackets (putting them in place from the bottom rather than from the top, and use the nylon washers (if you got the synth-parts one already prepared, or if you build this on your own, use a very thin nylon washer here). The system board with the controller CPU underneath the metal casing (Intel). I'm considering upgrading this a little bit for a 16mhz 'G' revision which apparently help sorting some slowness issues that can be remedied by using later firmware versions (up to 1.19). I'm currently on 1.16 and debate with myself if it would be worth the hassle... Basically a couple of shots where it is a bit disassembled and waiting for the numerous screws to come off, revealing the button/lcd board. The worst part of disassembling it was basically the bottom part that required some odd 19 screws to come off. The finished unit. Its 100% silent now. Its chrystal clear... Its like looking into the sun (


Statistics: Posted by ledan — Sun Apr 14, 2024 5:11 pm